Countdown to Start day

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Joined
Sep 2, 2012
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Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Trying to prepare for that highly desired start day. Here is what is on my mind.

1) Just ordered the starter after reading on this forum about the High Torque units.

2) Exhaust is in and secure

3) Need to freshen up a carb for starting and then order the correct one after breaking in the cam.

4) Almost ready to test the wiring harnesses. (Follow Midlife instructions)

5) Need a good routing for the heater hoses. I just can'r seem to remember the proper routing, and it kinda looks like crap right now.

6) Need to buy a radiator. I thought my original would be good after being stored in doors, but I was wrong. Are you guys happy with the aluminum and plastic units out there?

7) How do I start up my power steering pump and break in the cam at the same time? I was going to leave the pump idle at first, but the fan and the power steering are on the same belt.

8) I should probably use some old valve covers for startup just in case I did't get something torqued right in the valve train.

9) Brakes are bled, Clutch is adjusted, no driveshaft yet. (Good for me since this is a 4-speed conversion.)

10) Should I start it with straight water in the cooling system to avoid any issues with leaks and antifreeze?

11) Oil is in the oil pan, assembly lube in the engine. How do i prime the fuel system for a fresh start and 30 minute break in?

What else I am I missing besides beer and friends?

 
Got a fire extinguisher for your start-up, just in case?

 
Got a fire extinguisher for your start-up, just in case?
Great Point. Hopefully restoration burnout does not end there!

 
OK,  Today was the failed start day.  I thought everything was ready, but the things that I don't know how to check without starting the car came to haunt.

1)  Loose hose clamps on radiator hoses.

2) A leak at the back of the water pump right over the crank pulley.  (Found several loose water pump bolts that have me perplexed.

3) Distributor in 180 degrees out.  (After priming the oil system)

4) No fuel from the fuel pump.

So, what do i need to try before the next attemp.  THis is a flat tappet cam setup, so i am worried about additional cranking until I can break it in.

I have never had a mechanical fuel pump fail on me, but I have never had one sit for 15 years of restoration time either.  Is there an upgrade, or just stay with an OEM style?

Should I go ahead and upgrade the distributor to a Pertonics unit?  I want my factory Tach to still work!!!

Is there a recommended coil upgrade that looks stock?

The car did fire when I poured gas in the car, but we never got it "running".  Maybe 5 to 6 seconds of thunder after correcting the distributor position.

Please help.  I have tomorrow off!!

kcmash

 
I run a Pertronics first gen, the most basic way to replace points. Never got a problem and tach works fine. If you plan EFI at some point, I've seen some reports that newer versions may become an issue.

 
check that the lines to the fuel pump aren't plumbed backwards.  Car will run with a primed carb for 5-6 seconds if it is then the fuel is gone
Good suggestion, but the pump has a hose barb for rubber fuel line on the inlet and a rigid fitting on the outlet to the carb,  I could not feel vacuum on the inlet on the original carter, so i assume it is bad.  The Chinese unit from O-Reilly has a vacuum on the inlet when I do the same bench test.

Kinda stinks with unknown timing, and the fuel problem. I don't want to keep cranking.

kcmash

 
Go get a cheap electric pump, some fuel line and a gas can. Bypass mechanical pump for break in.

If it ran okay with a bit of gas poured down the throat then your timing is probably within range. You can check with a timing light even while cranking.

You should check the engine oil for the smell of gas. 15 years is a long time for a mechanical pump to sit. If it ruptured it might have sent some gas into the crank case. You really don't want that during break in. ;)

 
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Good advice.  No gas has even made it from the tank yet, so nothing got in the crank case.

With the gas, she stumbled a bit, but never got to an idle state in the 4-5 seconds.  I am thinking per some other recommendations that a funnel and fill the carb manually may give me a better idea if the timing is close enough to run for break in.

It's a beautiful cool night tonight, so if I had help I would give her another whirl.

kcmash

 
When you say you have "OIL" in the oil pan...... Do you mean "OIL"? or "BREAK IN OIL"?

The difference is Oil, will ruin your new engine in under 5 minutes.

Break in oil will properly provide the formulation your cam shaft and lifters need to prevent them from tearing each other to smithereens.

Break in oil....

Some suggest using Joe Gibbs BR-30.

https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Gibbs-Driven-Racing-Break/dp/B002MTMLSG



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Whatever you use, make sure its ACTUAL Break in oil, not regular oil with the additive. The problem with the additive is, it needs to be pre-mixed in all the oil before you crank the engine. So if you put in 5 quarts, then the additive, you can pretty much count on a trip to the machine shop after a failed break in. Thats why I would always suggest actual break in oil.

 
Crap!  Too scatter brained to remember exactly what I put in there.  But I remember asking and buying a break in oil.  I also added the Lucas additive with the sulfur for cam protection.

 
Start attempt #2:

1) New Fuel Pump works.  Getting gas to the carb.

2) Accelerator pump on the car does NOT seem to be cutting it.!!  It is a new one I put in. (Holley 650)  Any suggestions?

3) Fired up and runs like it's loaded up. But there is no black smoke, so I assume I am gas starving the beast.

4)  Cannot keep it running with my wife on the throttle, only I can.  Only got it to run at high(2500-3000 RPM) for about 5 minutes

5) Tach is NOT working!!!  Sucks for trying to break in.

6) Unsure of Temperature since temp gage is not hooked up.

7) Unsure of timing since I have to be in the drivers seat to keep it running.

8) I am NOT confident with the valve settings, even though I followed the procedure for setting valves on the engine stand. (No scary noises though)

HELP! HELP! HELP!

 
My replies

1) great.

2) Acellerator pump won't matter much for an unloaded engine during break in.

3) Hard to give any info.

4)  That's a start.  Can you operate the throttle from the carb instead of inside the cab?

5) Yes.  Cheap tachs are available, get one or a timing light that also has a tach.

6) I woudn't worry too much about this.  Feel the hoses, looks for coolant blowing out

7) Very important.  Get it to the rpm range you want and then turn the distributor.  Get a vacuum gauge and try to get near the highest vacuum at 2500 RPM or so.

8) No real advice on this one.  If you are close then break in shouldn't be a problem. Are you getting any popping from the intake or exhaust?
 
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Did you replace the check valve (ball and retainer) when you replaced the accel pump? Floats/fuel level good?

If so I'm guessing your timing is way off. You can check the timing without starting the engine, connect your timing light and crank it with the key off. The resistor wire bypass from the solenoid will charge the coil. If it does try to start when you stop cranking it the engine will stop.

 
My replies

1) great.

2) Acellerator pump won't matter much for an unloaded engine during break in.

3) Hard to give any info.

4)  That's a start.  Can you operate the throttle from the carb instead of inside the cab?

5) Yes.  Cheap tachs are available, get one or a timing light that also has a tach.

6) I woudn't worry too much about this.  Feel the hoses, looks for coolant blowing out

7) Very important.  Get it to the rpm range you want and then turn the distributor.  Get a vacuum gauge and try to get near the highest vacuum at 2500 RPM or so.

8) No real advice on this one.  If you are close then break in shouldn't be a problem. Are you getting any popping from the intake or exhaust?
8)  Getting some backfires out of the intake when trying to start and keep running.  Not at the Higher RPM.

 
Did you replace the check valve (ball and retainer) when you replaced the accel pump? Floats/fuel level good?

If so I'm guessing your timing is way off. You can check the timing without starting the engine, connect your timing light and crank it with the key off. The resistor wire bypass from the solenoid will charge the coil. If it does try to start when you stop cranking it the engine will stop.

How far off can "way off" be on the timing if I can get it to start? ( Do ned to pour gas in to start it.

I am unsure if I changed the check ball and retainer.  THis carb was the running carb when I took the car off the road many years ago.  I don't think I bothered messing with that.

I think my timing is off too..

 
That may explain it if the gas was allowed to dry in the bowls and it sat for a while. Drying gas creates a varnish on and in everything, plugs up passages. The timing can be way off and it will start, but not run well. The backfiring can be indicative of either a timing or a lean carburetor issue.

 
I re-read the thread, but didn't see if you overhauled and cleaned the carburetor. If the carb has been sitting for some time, the gas turns to varnish and clogs the small inlets and passages, and the car will run like crap. Furthermore, the gaskets will dry out and won't function well, so gas can go where it shouldn't.

You can set the timing to something close to what it should be by using a timing light, the key in RUN, and rotating the engine by hand such that the timing light flashes. Read the harmonic balancer for how many degrees BTDC. Then rotate the dizzy a small amount, tighten it up, and then rotate the engine back a quarter turn on the crank and then forward again until the light flashes again. Read the timing indicator and repeat as necessary until you get something between 6 and 12 degrees.

 
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